Jacobs dreams a little dream to close Fashion Week on a high

Colour, sparkle, craftsmanship, dazzling variety — and far too many cultural references to count

Twice a year, the New York fashion world trudges to the Upper East Side and the cavernous Park Avenue Armory to see what new tricks Marc Jacobs has up his sleeve.

Somehow Jacobs, who has the final Fashion Week slot every time — a position of considerable pressure — tends to find a way to surprise and impress. But on Wednesday night he also sent a jolt of delight through the crowd with a joyful and dreamlike ode to fashion of all kinds and all eras.

“Tonight is our reminder of the joy in dressing up,” he wrote in notes left on guests’ chairs, “our unadulterated love of fashion and embracing grand gestures of unbridled expressions, reactions, ideas and possibilities.”

If that was a mouthful, it reflected the ebullient mood of the show. Normally, Jacobs’ models walk down a runway in a dark room with a determined pout on their faces. Here, the lights were on and the models were smiling, winking, even waving as they sashayed by.

The room looked different, too. Entering to take their seats, guests found the huge Armory floor empty except for a gaggle of mismatched white chairs arranged in uneven rows at the back, as if in an abandoned vintage furniture store.

Suddenly the doors opened and Jacobs’ models — 61 of them — entered the room to the strains of Doris Day singing “Dream a Little Dream of Me.” They spread out horizontally and then marched directly to the audience, right past them in their chairs, and out the other side of the room.

Were these wonderfully colorful creatures, resembling the cast of a Fellini film on steroids, now gone? Thankfully, they returned and the show began in earnest, with models emerging one by one to parade in a circle around the seats.

There was colour, sparkle, craftsmanship, dazzling variety — and far too many cultural references to count. Bella Hadid looked like a cowboy, in shades of purple, red and gray. Her sister, Gigi Hadid, was barefoot, in a pastel blue minidress and round hat that resembled a 1960s airline hostess.

There were sartorial nods to people who died recently: Chanel’s longtime designer Karl Lagerfeld, who died in February; Lee Radziwill, who died the same month, and Anita Pallenberg, who died in 2017.

Jacobs also made clear his love for some current TV shows. “From late nights binge-streaming … inspiration draws from the thoughtful and accurately executed set design of ‘Fosse/Verdon,’” and what he called the “boundary-pushing … ‘Euphoria,’ so accurately portraying what it means to be a young person today.”

Jacobs didn’t leave unaddressed the fact that the day was 9-11; he referenced, in his show notes, his fashion show the night before the 2001 attacks, just yards away from the glistening towers.

“This show, like that show,” Jacobs said, “is a celebration of life, joy, equality, individuality, optimism, happiness, indulgence, dreams, and a future unwritten as we continue to learn from the history of fashion.”

Whether you caught Jacobs’ historical references in his parade of fashions, you definitely could catch the feeling of joy — and no more so than when Jacobs came out for his own bow.

Not content with the usual quick wave to the crowd, he threw up his arms and twirled around the room on his red platform boots — still clearly dreaming his little dream, and taking everyone else along for the ride.

Jocelyn Noveck, The Associated Press

Just Posted

Bear shot with crossbow arrow believed dead

BC Conservation, police track injured black bear’s blood trail near Lost Lake Road

Students and teachers to unite in Monday’s climate action rally

A teach-in for climate justice is set to take place at the B.C. Legislature this afternoon

Hybrid vessels part of B.C. Ferries’ plans to reduce emissions

Long-term goal of B.C. Ferries is to have a “standardized” all-electric fleet

Former runaway teen helps find missing youths through social media

Alex Meikle created the Facebook group Greater Victoria Missing & Runaway Teens

VIDEO: “How dare you?” Greta Thunberg addresses UN climate summit

‘We are in the beginning of a mass extinction and yet all you can talk about is money.’

Pettersson has 4 points as Canucks dump Ottawa 6-4

Vancouver wins NHL pre-season tilt in Abbotsford

British man returns to Yukon to tipple his own toe in long-running tradition

So-called sourtoe cocktail is a shot of whisky with a mummified human toe in it

Poll suggests Canadians concerned about fake news, but struggle to spot it

56 per cent of respondents admitted to reading or sharing inaccurate news

Bank robber targets Langford RBC

RCMP say robber produced a note, left with cash

Hawaii coral show signs of stress amid record-setting heat

June, July and parts of August all experienced the hottest ocean temperatures ever recorded

Province announces $3.5 million in funding for community solutions to overdose crisis

Grants up to $50,000 will be available for municipalities working with a regional health authority

Sophia Loren, Valentino receive standing ovation in Milan

Standing ovation from fashion and Hollywood A-listers at annual Green Carpet event

‘Own a piece of history’: Beachcombers location Molly’s Reach up for sale

‘This is one of B.C.’s most photographed buildings’

Most Read